From ford to food bowl

My previous post looked at the early history of the land east of the Moorabool River which is fast shaping up as Gen Fyansford. European settlement began in 1837 with the arrival of Police Magistrate Foster Fyans and his men. Following their departure, there was little in the way of permanent settlement at the ford, however various Europeans did spend time in the district.
From November, 1838 Charles Wightman Sievwright, Assistant-protector of Aborigines made his home near Fyan's Ford until his dismissal from the post in 1842. By implication, like Fyans, he and his family lived in huts near the ford ("they crossed Fyans' Ford by Mr. Severight's huts" - Port Phillip Gazette, 30th October, 1841) where, during his short time in the role, he struggled to bring to the notice of the authorities, the problems caused for the indigenous peoples by the loss of traditional food sources. Sievwright also strove unsuccessfully, to have mass murders of Aboriginals prosecuted. Eventually, he was suspended and then dismissed from his post amidst allegations of incompetence. Attempts to establish a full inquiry were thwarted by the government as were his attempts in England from 1845 to clear his name (Australian Dictionary of Biography). He died there, penniless in 1855. His wife had died in Australia the previous year, leaving their seven children orphaned.

Miniature portrait of Charles Wrightman Sievwright c1825,
reproduction rights held by the State Library of Victoria

Next, in 1842 John Atkins opened the Fyans Ford Inn on the west bank of the river on land leased by the Mercers. The following year, races and stock sales were held at Fyans' Ford and settlers began to view the area as a desirable place to be. However, whilst I found reference to an area for a village reserve at Fyans' Ford as early as 1840 (Port Phillip Patriot and Melbourne Advertiser, 12th October, 1840), I found no mention of the township being officially gazetted. According to survey maps, the first land sales occurred on 21st July, 1847. On this date, James Williamson and Thomas B Payne respectively purchased blocks 1 and 2 of section XIV in the Parish of Moorpanyal.
The map below shows a section of the parish survey map overlaid on Google Earth, including the two blocks which today are Gen Fyansford land. The red line indicates the boundaries of Gen Fyansford east of the Moorabool River.

Moorpanyal Parish survey map overlaid on Google Earth

As I described previously, block 2 became the site of the Fair View Hotel during the 1850s but I am unsure what use Payne may have made of the land prior to its becoming the hotel grounds. Nor can I find mention of Williamson occupying his land.
The following year on 15th December, 1848, the track to the top of Fyansford Hill (now Hyland St) was officially gazetted as a road (Port Phillip Government Gazette, No 52, 27 December 1848, p577). It passed through blocks 1 and 2 of Section XIV, however this may not have been a significant change as early paintings already show the track winding up Fyansford Hill from the river below.

Charles Norton's 1846 view of Fyansford Hill, showing the track running
from the Moorabool River to the top of the hill, Image held by the
State Library of Victoria

The land immediately to the south of Williamson's block up to today's Atkin's St also forms part of Gen Fyansford. At the time of the original survey, this land fell within the Fyansford town reserve and was mostly subdivided into quarter acre residential blocks which were sold at public auction on 23rd June, 1854, some seven years after the sale of the larger blocks to the north. Early photos show some houses and other buildings on the land by the late 1850s, but also many open, unfenced spaces.
 And there things stood until 20th November, 1867 when Edwin Hopton purchased two blocks of land along the river, totalling about 1 and 1/4 acres. Edwin was a noted local who lived for a time at 'Swanville', the original inn built by John Atkins on the west bank of the Moorabool, before moving to another Fyansford property which he called 'Woodlands' where he was a fruit-grower and vigneron. What use he made of the land on the east bank of the Moorabool or how long he owned it, I am unsure.
The next parcel of land to be purchased on the flats overlooking the river and also now part of Gen Fyansford, was an area of about 2 acres which was purchased on 29th May, 1877 by Henry King who with his father George, developed the property into one of the best-known plant nurseries and vineyards in the district: 'Fairview Gardens'. This small land purchase in 1877 appears to be a later acquisition as The Australasian (15th December, 1877) reported that the Kings had held their 26 acre property for around eight years, placing them in the district as early as 1869, although I found other newspaper articles suggesting the Kings' presence as fruit-growers at Fyansford as early as 1863.

Henry King in later life. Image provided courtesy
of the Bellarine Historical Society

By 1880 the Kings were in possession of 46 acres (including river frontage) and were advertising apple trees for sale, boasting many new strains recently introduced from America. The land included the sloping ground above the river with the vines planted on the fertile river flats below.
At this point, I am unable to determine exactly what land was incorporated in the 46 acres held by the Kings, however can only assume that it included some or all of the land originally purchased by James Williamson in 1847 and perhaps some of that originally owned by Thomas Payne and which became the grounds of the Fair View Hotel. Incidentally, I have no idea if the name of the gardens was in anyway connected to, or inspired by the name of the hotel, however the earliest mention I found of the gardens using the name was in 1876, the same year in which Margaret Greenwood - the last owner of the hotel - died.

Advert: Geelong Advertiser 21st August, 1880

In September, 1880, disaster struck when the Moorabool suffered one of the largest floods on record. Upstream, Hope's Flour Mill below Batesford was washed away as was the almost complete Sharp's Crossing bridge near Sheoaks. A number of other structures along the river were also damaged. At Fyansford, of 40 acres under cultivation by the Kings, 20 acres were inundated. Valuable topsoil was carried off and losses were estimated at £500. In addition to a large number of cherry trees, 10,000 apple trees, 500 elms, 600 mulberry trees and a number of gooseberry trees were also destroyed. Despite this setback, the Kings were still able to supply cherries, plums, apricots, apples, and strawberries to the fruit market that season along with trees and seedlings for the nurseries (Geelong Advertiser, 6th December, 1880).
Flooding was not the only setback suffered by the Kings. Initially, in addition to the trees, fruit, vegetables and seedlings, they also planted grapes and it was claimed that their vineyard was one of the best-kept and most productive in the colony. That was, until 1878 when the 'Fairview Gardens' was one of the first properties to be struck by the tiny, sap-sucking insect known as phylloxera. According to the Geelong Advertiser of 16th July, 1878 the pest spread from Charles Wyatt's Frogmore Nursery, located less than 2 miles away on the Barwon River to the Kings' property on the Moorabool. Presumably the Kings had purchased infected stock from Mr Wyatt. As became standard practise, all vines on the property were dug up (April, 1878) and as far as possible, even the smallest rootlets removed to eradicate the pest. From this point, the Kings focused on their other growing interests.

Looking north west across the site of the 'Fairview Gardens', June, 2016

In these early years, water for the gardens was supplied from the Geelong water mains at a rate of £10 per year, however the supply was expensive and often inadequate so in1880 the Kings erected a windmill which would pump water from the river up to three 400 gallon tanks on higher ground (Geelong Advertiser, 6th December, 1880). Conveniently, Alfred King - Henry's brother - was a plumber with works located in Ryrie St. It was he who built the windmill erected at 'Fairview Gardens'. An 1882 reference in the same paper to "Mr King's windmill" suggests that the windmill was in place by that year. 
(NOTE: in both the 1926 image below and the image "dated" 1939 in the post to follow this one, two large holes which I think may be two of the 400 gallon tanks can be seen at the bend near the top of Hyland St. If so, then much of the 'Fairview Gardens' was located on the blocks of land originally owned by James Williamson and Thomas Payne.)
Over the following years, advertisements for the gardens appeared regularly in the newspapers until 1889 when the Kings decided to sell up. The property was sold on a boom market to a group of local investors whose initial intention was to subdivide and sell the land. Instead, they decided to continue the operation, retaining Henry King as manager and on 8th July, 1889 their business was registered under the name of the Fairview Gardens Company Ltd.
One of their first moves after taking possession of the property was to apply to establish a pump capable of taking 8,000 gallons of water per hour from the river. The intention was to carry the water through an 8 inch mains pipe to a 30,000 gallon cement and brick-lined reservoir further up the riverbank which would be refilled with river water every four days. From here, 6 inch pipes would distribute water to the gardens. Unsurprisingly, various community members were unhappy with this plan, fearing that during the summer months they would be left without enough water for their own purposes.
A group headed by local vintner and businessman Edwin Hopton took their complaint to parliament, suggesting instead, that the government should build a plant which would be controlled by a trust for the benefit of the entire community. Their complaint however did not receive a sympathetic hearing. Damming the river was also ruled out as it was feared this would create issues with flooding along the river flats upstream. The Fairview Gardens Co it seemed would have its water.
From this point onwards, the company successfully traded until 1904 when it was unanimously decided at an extraordinary general meeting of the company to go into liquidation. The property was placed on the market and on 17th September 1904 the following advertisement was placed in the Geelong Advertiser:

 Fairview Gardens for sale:

comprising 45 acres or thereabouts of rich river flats, about 10 acres, planted with the choices of fruit trees, and the remainder now under growing crop, has a large frontage to the river Moorabool and main road. The improvements comprise three capital good 4 and 6-roomed cottages, and all necessary outbuildings, stabling, etc., also an extensive irrigation plant, with engine, piping and windmills; besides a supply commanding about 9 acres from the Geelong water main. Extensive marl pit on the property.

Whilst the property did not sell at auction, it was purchased only a month or so later by John Ince, a local businessman and politician who after a short stint in the Victorian Legislative Assembly (December, 1877-January, 1880) served as councillor and mayor of Geelong West between 1875 and 1890.

,John Ince, Mayor of Geelong West and owner of
'Fairview Gardens'. Image held by the State Library
of Victoria

Ince's tenure at 'Fairview Gardens' was somewhat shorter than previous owners and by November, 1915 the property was on the market. In March the following year, by now listed for lease by the trustees of Ince's deceased estate and given the title 'Fairview Farm'.
The King family meanwhile, did not move too far from their Fyansford gardens. In retirement George King and his wife Elizabeth lived at a property in Marshall St, Chilwell and it was there on 21st November, 1894 that George died. He was described by The Age as "a colonist of 40 years". His wife Elizabeth survived him by a further six years, dying at Marshall St in 1900.

Graves of George and Elizabeth King (left) and Henry and Ruth King (right)
at the Western General Cemetery, Herne Hill, September, 2016

Henry meanwhile, after the sale of the property, was invited to take up the role of Inspector of Fruit for the Geelong region, a position for which he was well qualified. At the time of Henry's death on 19th September, 1913 at the age of 76 he and his wife - Ruth - were living not far from 'Fairview Gardens' in Upper Skene St, Newtown. Henry was buried beside his parents at the Western General Cemetery in Herne Hill. Ruth died at the age of 79 in 1921 and was buried with her husband.

Ruth King (neé Wise). Image provided courtesy of
the Bellarine Historical Society

As for the 'Fairview Gardens' their days were also numbered. In 1925, the Australian Portland Cement Company (or the Fyansford Cement Works as they are locally known) purchased the the gardens along with other neighbouring properties, thus spelling the end of what was by all accounts a very productive and attractive part of Fyansford's history.

Image by Charles Daniel Pratt dated 1939, however the photo is clearly pre-
1925 as the cement works railway and new plant are yet to be built
(see below), however here is also little (if any) sign of 'Fairview Gardens'.
Image held by the Victorian State Library

A fair view

In addition to its better-known hotels, for several decades during the latter half of the 19th century, Fyansford had another pub: the Fair View (aka Fairview) Hotel. By all accounts, the Fair View was aptly named. Perched atop the highest point of Herne Hill - or Fyans' Ford Hill as it was known in the early days of the colony - it commanded sweeping 360 degree views of the surrounding landscape, however its origins seem - to me at least - to be a bit of a mystery.
It was positioned - according to the 1861 geological survey map - on the north west corner of today's Hyland St and McCurdy Rd on a 30 acre block of land which extended all the way down to the banks of the Moorabool River. The earliest owner of that block of land (allotment 2 of section 14, Parish of Moorpanyal) was one Thomas B Payne, who purchased it at a government land sale on 21st July, 1847 at a cost of 70 shillings per acre, although what Mr Payne may have done with his newly-acquired property, I cannot tell.

A section of the 1953 survey map of Moorpanyal Parish showing the block
purchased by Thomas Payne in 1847. Image held by the State Library of Victoria

I do know however, that by March, 1855 the Fair View Hotel was standing on the south east corner of the allotment, but the listed owner was not Payne, instead it was James Noble Esq. alderman of the Geelong town council and possibly also a wine and spirit merchant in Geelong. It seems that being an alderman had its benefits for when he complained to council that the rates on the property were too high, the council agreed to reduce them from £400 to £300 per year.
Whilst Noble was the owner of the hotel, he was not - by 1855 at least - the occupier. That role was occupied by Mr John McInnes who in April, 1855 went into voluntary bankruptcy and was brought before the insolvency court. In the third hearing of the case on 13th June, it was claimed that McInnes had debts of £1908 2s and assets of only £293 17s. Amongst other creditors, he had refused to pay wages to his gardener/handyman Mr Powsey and was also in arrears on his rent.

Things went from bad to worse for McInnes when he was charged with having removed property - barrels of liquor - from the cellar of the hotel in the small hours of the 4th March, several weeks before he declared bankruptcy. As a result, he was indicted for "committing a fraudulent insolvency, for the purpose of defrauding his creditors" (Geelong Advertiser 31st July, 1855). After initial denials it was established that McInnes had in fact removed the liquor. To achieve this, he had the assistance of his barman and a colleague who helped him to load the barrels onto a dray and take them a short distance to the house of a Mr Steward. All these proceedings were seen or overheard by Powsey and his family who had been locked in the lower part of the hotel by the barmaid and one of the others.

McInnes was found guilty of fraud and sentenced a year's imprisonment with hard labour.
By January, 1859 Noble had decided to sell his public house which was advertised in The Argus on 31st January, 1859 in the following, glowing terms:

WOOD and RIX have received positive instructions from James Noble, Esq., to SELL by AUCTION...on Monday, January 31,

THE FAIRVIEW HOTEL,

Containing 15 spacious rooms, situate on Fyans Hill, overlooking Fyans Ford and adjacent country. The hotel grounds comprise

30 acres of rich soil,

 partially laid out and cultivated. Planted with choice fruit-trees, shrubs &c., the whole securely fenced.
The property is most delightfully situated, and too much can scarcely be said in its favour. The land extends to the River Moorabool, along which it has an extensive frontage. From the river the land stretches back for some distance, forming a gentle slope, and presenting to the eye a magnificent plateau, only requiring the plough to develop its hidden virtues. The soil is of a rich character which is to be found along almost the whole course of the far-famed Moorabool. At the termination of this most beautiful portion of the estate, the land rises somewhat abruptly, and at the top of the ascent is an extensive and well-stocked fruit garden, so situated as to be nicely sheltered from the cold and unfavourable winds, whilst enjoying the genial warmth of the sun's rays. Near the garden is a building which has been used as a pottery and could be easily made available for a similar purpose. Between the orchard and the hotel is a kitchen-garden covering some acres of fine soil; and on the highest part of the land stands
The hotel, in connection with which is a roomy stable and coach-house, with other outbuildings.
The auctioneers see that it is difficult to convey to the public a correct idea of this most valuable property and would beg any who with to make a really safe and decidedly profitable investment to look a the place for themselves.
As a resort for public recreation this spot is unrivalled and would put Montpellier completely in the shade were the same pains taken to display its advantages as have been expended on that favourite resort.
As a site for villa residences this spot can scarcely be surpassed; the view to the westward is magnificent, whilst the proximity of the estate to Geelong renders it more valuable.

A part of the view overlooking the Moorabool Valley from the grounds of what
was once the Fair View Hotel, August, 2016. Click to enlarge

The outcome of the auction does not appear to have been recorded, however it may well have been purchased by an investor, for only a few months later - in September - the Fair View was once again advertised for sale. This time however, the vendor was R Porter, Esq. and the property was described as having only two acres of land adjoining but with no mention of river frontage (Geelong Advertiser, 6th September, 1859).
Like their earlier counterparts, these agents were also keen to talk up the hotel's position, giving a clear idea of how impressive this location must have been in the mid-19th century:

...and for a Tea Garden is unrivalled, possessing and commanding most extensive views of the Bay, Bass's Straits, Mount Buninyong, the whole of the Barrabool Hills, the You Yangs, the Dandenong ranges, and Bellerine(sic) Hills, with Geelong and the shipping in the bay, in the foreground: and last, though not least, the beautiful valley of Fyans' Ford, with the confluence of the Barwon and Moorabool rivers.

The advert then goes on to describe the building itself as a two-storey, stuccoed brick building with a slate roof. On the ground floor was a large bar-room with cellar, four sitting rooms, kitchen, servants' bedroom, large laundry and pantry. There was also a private entrance - presumably for the benefit of the proprietor. Accommodation in the form of ten bedrooms was located on the upper floor.
In addition to the main building, there was also a 7,000 gallon capacity sealed, brick water tank and a six-horse stable.
The selling agent also made the bold claim that "by far the largest portion of the Ballarat and Western traffic passes it".

Fyansford looking across the Moorabool towards Herne Hill c1866-1880. The
buildings at the top (left) of the hill are most likely the Fair View Hotel. Image
taken by John Norton, held by the State Library of Victoria

The new owners - presumably since the 1859 sale of the property - were William and Margaret Greenwood and the hotel was by that time known as Greenwood's Family Hotel. Margaret Coates (an Edinburgh woman) was a widow whose first husband William Thustain had died two years earlier in 1854 at only 25 years of age. The Thustain's only child - an infant named John - died two months after his father. In 1856 Margaret had married William Greenwood - an immigrant from Yorkshire - and by 1862 the couple had five children.
 By July, 1861 however, the Greenwoods were looking to sell the hotel. This time, a gig-house, piggery and cowsheds were also advertised along with two acres of fruit trees and grape vines. Thorough renovations costing several hundred pounds had been conducted and "Greenwood's Family Hotel" formerly known as the "Fair View Hotel" was for lease or sale as a private gentlemen's residence.
Their attempts to sell the hotel in 1861 however, were unsuccessful and by February, 1863 they had instead, leased the property. The new tenants were the Misses Dawson who had undertaken to move their "ladies' seminary" from Newtown to the more spacious 'Fair View House'. The former hotel was now a school for young ladies. Having operated in Newtown since 1854, the Dawsons were keen to increase the size of their school and were quick to stress the "healthful" location of their new premises as well as their proximity to the centre of town. "No expense whatever" they claimed "will be spared to procure the assistance of the first masters in the colony, and every exertion will be made to ensure the happiness and comfort of the young ladies confided to their care (Geelong Advertiser, 16th February, 1863).
Despite their apparent enthusiasm, the Misses Dawson were soon on the move again. By the middle of 1865 had relocated to 'LaTrobe House' in LaTrobe Tce. On this occasion however, it may not have been a decision of their own making. In July, 1864 William Greenwood had died, leaving Margaret a widow for the second time at the age of just 37. This time, with five children to support.  Only a month before his death on 23rd June, William made out his will. Margaret along with two others was to act as executrix and all three were to be trustees of the estate. One of the two executors immediately renounced his rights leaving Margaret and another to administer the estate without him. Under the terms of the will, Margaret was the sole beneficiary and entitled to all income from the estate until hear death at which time, all incomes were to be divided amongst her children or kept in trust until such time as they reached 21 years of age.
Following William's death and the departure of the ladies' school, I am unsure whether the hotel sat vacant or was once again operating as a hotel. In November, 1867 however 'Fairview House' along with five acres of garden and outbuildings was again for sale and remained on the market until the middle of the following year when Mrs Greenwood was declared insolvent.
Somehow, despite this, she managed to retain ownership of the hotel - her creditors it seems could not complete a sale either - and the pub was again advertised for sale in September, 1868, February, 1869 and April, 1871. Finally, in September 1871 she was able to transfer her publican's license to a tenant - J.C.Mogg.
Despite an advertising campaign aimed at drumming up business, by June, 1873 Mogg had removed to the Geelong Hotel in town and Margaret was once again granted a liquor license for the Fairview Hotel, Fyansford in her own name. By October the property was yet again on the market and in December she was seeking someone willing to take up a three year lease. A tenant however, was not forthcoming until July, 1875 when finally, Margaret advertised the sale of her household furniture and other effects, including a cottage pianoforte sitting, bedroom and dining room furnishings, stating that the hotel had been let.
Then, in 1876 - at the age of only 49 - Margaret also died. She was buried with her second husband William in the old Church of England section of the Eastern Cemetery. Her youngest child would only have been 14 and the eldest 19. After this date there is little mention of the Fair View in the papers. A report in the Geelong Advertiser of 23rd September, 1880 stated that after a severe storm "at the old Fairview Hotel on the Fyansford Hill, several chimneys were blown down and the roof of the building greatly damaged". It seems likely that that the hotel fell vacant after Margaret's death - if it was not already - and was never again occupied.
In July, 1881 however, it was indicated that "...the old Fair View Hotel, at the top of Fyansford Hill after being closed for many years, is about to be utilised again, but not as a public house. Mr Hotchin, the well-known butcher, of Aberdeen-street, lately purchased the building and adjoining premises for a sum of £450. The purchaser intends converting the extensive house into a slaughtering establishment." (Geelong Advertiser, 2nd July, 1881.) It is also likely that the hotel building itself was dismantled at this time as building materials which had been part of the Fair View Hotel were advertised for sale.
Like others before him however, Hotchin's butchery on the site did not last long. On 13th March, 1884, the following advertisement appeared in the Geelong Advertiser: "Part allotment 2, section 14, parish Moorpanyal, Herne Hill, containing 12 acres or thereabouts, on which is erected a new and first-class slaughtering establishment, complete with sheep and cattle pens, piggeries, boiler, water laid on, etc; also a new four-roomed brick cottage, with kitchen and underground tank."
Presumably by this time, the original 30 acre block extending to the Moorabool which had been part of the  Fair View's original grounds had been subdivided and sold, leaving the the butchery and associated buildings on the high ground at the top of the hill.
After 1884, the only other mention of the hotel was an advert two years later in 1886, calling for tenders for paper hanging and painting on the premises, site of the old Fair View Hotel, Herne Hill. Where the paper was to be hung and upon what building was not made clear. I also found no further reference to the butchery.

Looking east towards the site of the Fair View Hotel, August, 2016

Today, the site contains some modern suburban houses but is otherwise vacant. The view to the west, whilst altered by 20th century quarrying and the traffic on the Geelong Ring Road, remains broad. To the north, south and east, modern housing and the now disused Fyansford Cement Works (established 1890) obscure any of the other landmarks which may have been visible, at least from ground level.
Almost 140 years later, it seems somewhat surprising perhaps that a site with so many described natural advantages, on a busy thoroughfare did not become the site of a stately home and appears to have been unable to support a thriving business.