Paddling the Barwon - Part 2

In the first part of this post, I gave brief descriptions of the sections of the river which I have paddled up to this point in time.

On the Barwon, January, 2013

Below is a table giving details of the various points along the river from which it is possible to launch small water craft such as kayaks and the type of access involved. I have also included links to a photo of each location.

Access Points	Approximate GPS Co-ordinates	Distance to next access	Comments
Inverleigh Bell’s Bridge, Inverleigh-Winchelsea Rd, Inverleigh	S38 º 6.792’ E144 º 3.787’	16.2km	Access from the north bank via dirt track about 200m downstream of Bell’s Bridge
Murgheboluc Hamilton Hwy, Murgheboluc	S38 º 6.654’ E144 º 8.459’	8.2km	Steep bank access. Entry via 400m grassed laneway to the north bank behind “please shut the gate” sign opposite Murgheboluc Public Reserve, Hamilton Hwy, Murgheboluc
Pollocksford Bridge Pollocksford Rd, Gnarwarre	S38 º 8.627’ E144 º 11.206’	1.8km	Access from the east bank via a rutted track to a small weir about 150m north of the bridge
Stonehaven Dear’s Lane, Stonehaven	S38 º 8.427’ E144 º 14.713’	9.9km	Steep bank access via dirt track from the end of Dear’s Lane, Stonehaven
Merrawarp Rd Bridge Merrawarp Rd, Barrabool (Ceres)	S38 º 8.496’ E144 º 15.750’	5.7km	Steep access to the south bank adjacent to the west side of the bridge via rough access track (approx. 200m)
Ceres Track off Gully Rd, Ceres	S38 º 8.749’ E144 º 16.081’	640m	Access via shallow bank. Entry via 550m gravel track from Gully Rd, however permission is required
Baum’s Weir Cnr Cyril Synot Dve and Degoldi’s Rd, Fyansford.	S38 º 8.946’ E144 º 17.995’	5.1km	Access via 200m gravel track to parking area. River entry from concrete-paved slipway or timber deck
Fyansford Common Moorabool River west bank, Fyansford Common, Fyansford	S38 º 8.672’ E144 º 18.691’	2.4km	Access to the Moorabool about 450m upstream from the confluence with the Barwon via a paved slipway. Portage of around 150m required from nearest parking
Fyans Park Fyans Park boat ramp, Cnr Gairloch and West Fyans St	S38 º 9.389’ E144 º 19.280’	2.6km	Concrete ramp access adjacent to parking
Newtown Marnockvale Rd, Newtown	S38 º 9.893’ E144 º 19.970’	2km	Access via timber deck adjacent to the Geelong Canoe Club facilities
South Geelong Rowing sheds, Barwon Tce, South Geelong Or Boat ramp, Barrabool Rd, Belmont	S38 º 9.930’ E144 º 21.261’	1.9km	Access either from the deck at the rowing sheds (north bank) or ramp access from opposite bank (access via Barrabool Rd)
Breakwater Gun Dog Lane, Breakwater Upstream Downstream	S38 º 10.906’ E144 º 21.861’	1.9km*	Upstream access from timber deck adjacent to road bridge (west bank). Downstream access from the west bank below the bridge
St Alban’s Park Wilson’s Rd, St Alban’s Park	S38 º 12.076’ E144 º 23.140’	3.7km	Access from the bank adjacent to the Geelong Water Ski Club at the end of Wilson’s Rd
Lake Connewarre Tait’s Point, Stacey’s Rd, Connewarre Or Brinsmead’s Lane, Leopold	S38 º 14.217’ E144 º 25.776’ S38 º 12.927’ E144 º 28.922’	7.4km (5.2km from Tait’s Point)	Access via concrete-paved boat ramp or pontoon, end of Stacey’s Rd Shallow bank access via steep track from the end of Brinsmead’s Lane
Barwon Heads River Parade, Barwon Heads Or Ocean Grove Jetty, cnr Peer’s Cres and Guthridge St, Ocean Grove Or Barwon Heads/Ocean Grove foreshore	S38 º 15.922’ E144 º 29.795’ S38 º 15.774’ E144 º 30.475’ S38 º 16.884’ E144 º 29.682’	11.2km	Access via boat ramp, River Parade on the west bank  Boat ramp access from carpark Beach access from either side of the river at Barwon Heads/Ocean Grove

Of course, there are other locations from which it is possible to launch small craft, however they either do not have close enough vehicle access, are on private property or there is another suitable access point with better facilities nearby. For example, it is possible to launch from the decks near the bridge at Queen's Park, but the boat ramp at Fyans Park is within 1km of the bridge and provides easier access to the river.

River access points plotted o Google Earth. Click to enlarge

The first part of this post can be found at Paddling the Barwon - Part 1. Happy paddling everyone!

...and up they rise!

By Friday 9th September, 2016 a large rain band was moving across Victoria and over the next several days, heavy rains hit the Barwon Catchment. River levels began to rise and by early Wednesday morning the Upper Barwon was in flood as was the Leigh River at Shelford. By Wednesday evening the combined floodwaters from the Upper Barwon, the Leigh and Moorabool Rivers reached Geelong. With the rising water levels came the usual increased interest in the Barwon.
So, before all the excitement of the past few days dies down and the river heights return to more normal levels, it is probably worth posting a few flood photos for posterity as I have done during other flooding events on the Barwon. I won't go into too many facts and figures as I have done that previously. For those interested this post from September, 2011 looks a little at the causes of flooding on the Barwon.
For comparison purposes, here is the post from a small flood event in August, 2012 and this from the January, 2011 flood which always proves remarkably popular when river levels rise.
The current flood event by comparison reached "moderate" levels on both the Upper and Lower Barwon as well as on the Leigh River at Shelford which peaked mid-afternoon on Wednesday at a height of 7.22m. Through Geelong, the flood level peaked over night Thursday at a height of 3.29m, having earlier reached a peak of 6.13m on the Upper Barwon at Rickett's Marsh at around 5:30pm Wednesday.

Moorabool River

Batesford, 8:15am 15th September, 2016

Fyansford, 9:45am 15th September, 2016

Fyansford, 2:30pm 15th September, 2016

Leigh River

Inverleigh, 9am 15th September, 2016

Barwon River

Pollocksford 8:45am 15th September, 2016

  Baum's Weir, 9:45am 15th September, 2016

Buckley Falls, 4:30pm 16th September, 2016

 Fyansford Paper Mill, 1:45pm 15th September, 2016

Newtown Lookout, 4:45pm 15th September, 2016 

Queen's Park, 4:45pm 16th September, 2016

Balyang Sanctuary, 4pm 16th September, 2016

Barwon Bridge, Geelong 5:15pm 15th September, 2016

Breakwater, 3:45pm 16th September, 2016

Lake Connewarre, 12:15pm 16th September, 2016

Barwon Heads, 12:45pm 16th September, 2016

 Barwon Heads, 1pm 16th september, 2016

 Barwon Heads Bluff, 3pm 16th September, 2016

 For now, the rain has - mostly - abated, the floodwaters are receding and the clean up will soon begin, however on a saturated catchment with more than two months of spring rain still to come it remains to be seen what will happen next...
Further photos at each of the above locations can be seen at the following link: the rivers in flood, 2016

Songlines of the Barwon Catchment

During the recent Mountain to Mouth 2016 extreme arts walk held across the City of Greater Geelong and the Borough of Queenscliffe, one of the catchphrases used was "walk this land". Participants were encouraged to consider those who have walked the land before us. Part of our route took us along the Barwon River, with the event ultimately concluding on the banks of the river at Barwon Heads.
With this in mind, I thought I would have a look at the lands of the wider Barwon catchment and the people who have walked them. The way we cross the land today is perhaps best represented by maps. For thousands of years before the arrival of Europeans however, the indigenous tribes of Australia walked the land, following ancient tracks and pathways known to their ancestors, without the benefit of modern cartographic techniques.
For 25,000 years prior to the arrival of Europeans, the Barwon catchment was home to three indigenous tribes. The lands surrounding the lower Barwon - downriver from Winchelsea - as well as the catchments of the Moorabool and Leigh/Yarrowee Rivers were occupied by the Wathaurong (Wadawurrung) people. The lands of the Gulidjan Tribe lay along the upper reaches of the Barwon, also incorporating the area around Lake Colac. The Barwon itself formed the boundary between the Gulidjan people and their southern neighbours - the Gadubanud Tribe - who lived on the land between the river and the coast, stretching westwards past Cape Otway.

Adaption of the map "Catchments of the Barwon River and inland Basins", created
by the Victorian State Rivers and Water Supply Commission, 1950 (original
image held by the State Library of Victoria). Clan territories estimated from
Clark, 1995, "Scars in the Landscape"

Rather than physical maps such as the one above, indigenous maps were shared through dance, song, painting and story. They talked about the features of the land itself; the rivers and creeks which showed them the way from one place to another, the hills, the trees, the rocks, the waterholes passed along the way. Even the sky played a role. Following these "songlines", it was possible to walk for hundreds of kilometres. In this way, people could move between tribes, establish trade routes, make marriages, manage natural resources; walking - it was believed - in the footsteps of the creator spirit.

And it isn't too much of a stretch to see how songlines could work. The name of the Barwon itself is a directional description. Barre Warre N Yallock - the big river which flows from the mountains to the sea. Follow this river and you will reach the sea. Kooly bar ghurk (Coolebarghurk): man's track by the creek. Another descriptive name. Which track? The one by the creek. The one made by people, not the many animal tracks which no doubt criss-crossed the land.

"Man's track by the creek". For thousands of years, the Wathaurong walked the
banks of Coolebarghurk Creek

Wormbete: which lake? The "lake with the black fellow's mound". Where? Bukar Bulac; the place between two rivers. This was the Wathaurong name for the confluence of the Moorabool and Barwon Rivers.
Creation stories told how the eagle Bundjil looked down upon the world from the sky where his fire (the planet Jupiter) could be seen from Earth. Bundjil it was said, made his earthly home at Woringganninyoke - Lal Lal Falls. Whilst the meaning of the first name is unknown, "Lal Lal" is said to mean "dashing water in a crevice". Another literal description which could contribute to a songline.

Lal Lal Falls, April, 2012

Many other sites were named for prominent features which could also be used as part of a songline. Someone wanting to journey north west from Jillong (Geelong), the "place of native companions" or the place "where the seabirds fly over white cliffs", could perhaps travel to Durdidwarrah where either a "shelter of bark" or "dead water" could be found after which they would reach Bungeeltap (meaning either "spirit water" or "eagle's nest"). From there, they could see [Mount] Warrengeep (Warrenheip) where the ferns of the side of the mount resembled "emu feathers" before passing Bonan Yowing (Buninyong), the mountain shaped like a "man lying on his back with his knee raised." Once there, it wasn't too far to Balla arat (Ballarat), the "reclining on the elbow" "place" or resting place.

Bonan Yowing: Mt Buninyong, visible across the surrounding countryside
for many kilometres

Like today's Google Maps, the songlines of the indigenous peoples not only described which route to follow, but gave tips about where to stay and what food could be found along the journey: Yarram Mordong (the Wathaurong name for Buckley Falls), waterfall [of] eels; Porrong Goop (Borrongoop), the place of quails; Koo N Warre (Lake Connewarre), mud oyster water.

Koo N Warre: Lake Connewarre

In this way, the Wathaurong, Gulidjan and Gadubanud Tribes of the Barwon catchment "mapped" out the land, preserving their knowledge over thousands of years for future generations. Until European settlers arrived...

Eels not seals

Over the last week, I have spent quite a few hours paddling on the river. On Sunday, after hearing from friends that they had spotted a seal in the section of the river immediately below the lower breakwater, I headed down from town for a look.
As I got close to the lower breakwater, I began seeing small floats every hundred metres or so down the middle of the river. Curious, I had a look. What I discovered was that these (there were about a dozen of them), were floats marking the positions of commercial eel traps which had been placed in the river.

Float belonging to a commercial eel trap on the river

Whilst I have seen individual fishermen catching eels on the Barwon before, this is the first time I have come across a commercial venture. A little research suggests that there are two commercial licences for eel fishing on the Barwon, with details of the eels and the industry in general outlined in an article by the Environment Department. The licences cover areas from Queen's Park to Lake Connewarre and part of the river downstream of the lake.
Below the break things were different. There were no traps but fish of some description (I couldn't see which but would assume Short-finned eels) were jumping in the channel between the breakwater and the lake. Alas, there was no sign of the seal which had no doubt been making the most of the plentiful food supply. I did however come across three fishermen who were very pleased there was no seal to eat the fish they were trying to catch!


Something breaking the surface

Once I reached Lake Connewarre, conditions were still mild so I thought I'd continue down to Barwon Heads to see if I could spot my "prey", however whilst I enjoyed the paddle (despite the stiff breeze which popped up as I approached the Heads), there was still no sign of the seal.
On the plus side, I did get some more great shots of the river downstream of the lake.

The western end of Lake Connewarre

In addition to a number of scenic shots of water and blue sky, I also snapped a number of very blurry shots of the numerous skydivers who were also making the most of the fine conditions. At one point I also managed a shot of one of the planes coming and going from the nearby Barwon Heads Airport and passing over the lake.

The view overhead

As I threaded my way through the myriad of channels, trying to find the exit from the lake to the river below, I spotted hundreds of birds of a variety of species all making use of the various sand banks around, including a pair of Pied oystercatchers

Pied oystercatchers on the flats

and quite a number of Caspian terns, which I don't remember seeing along the river before, including this pair, one of whom has clearly been banded for research purposes.

Caspian terns

A little further downstream through the state game reserve, the scenery was as flat as always, but no less impressive for that.

Below Lake Connewarre

One thing I did note which I don't remember seeing before, was what appear to be areas of bank erosion through the swampy part of the river which leads into the mangroves at Barwon Heads. Whether this is natural or not, I don't know.


Bank erosion along the lower Barwon

Past this point, the wind picked up and the paddling became hard work, but I made it to the Heads without issue and took the easy option of a ride home.

Just another day on the Barwon

The weather on Saturday was sensational. Sunny and warm with a slight breeze. The perfect day for a paddle and some photography, so here are the results.
I was on the water at St Albans by 1pm and headed down to Tait's Point. The birds were out and about, as was a farmer feeding cattle. As I headed towards the lower breakwater I spotted something I hadn't seen over the Barwon before. Skydivers!


Skydivers just visible in the distance

As I watched, a light aircraft zoomed overhead and four parachutes drifted down. I paddled on hoping for a better angle and a closer shot, but didn't have any success.
 I continued my journey and did the usual lift and drag around the breakwater. A little further downstream I met up with another paddler who was heading up for a spot of our common hobby - geocaching.


Expansive views across Lake Connewarre

Together we headed down to Tait's Point and then across to a place which I've often seen but never been to before - The Island. This is an outcrop of land which juts into Lake Connewarre near Tait's Point but is not (except in times of flood I suspect) wholly separate from the land surrounding the lake. I have not so far managed to find much information about "The Island" except that it may have been here on 9th November, 1874 that a shooting accident occurred which left a young boy dead - something of which I was unaware as I climbed up the slope.
At its highest point, The Island rises to about 15m above sea level, meaning that from this point, the surrounding views are expansive.


 

Lake Connewarre looking north west from The Island

Having found what we came for (ie the cache), we took a few moments to snap some photos of the lake which on a clear day like this was sparkling, before heading back to the kayaks for the paddle back up to the lower breakwater where my companion had a second cache to find. At this point we parted ways and I headed back to town whilst he headed back downriver.
When I arrived, the cattle I had passed earlier were chewing away at the hay the farmer had distributed for them and were quite happy to watch from the bank as I snapped some shots. The carp which had been jumping out of the water throughout my paddle were not so obliging.

Cows and calves

Despite the mild conditions, there was still just enough of a breeze to keep the windmills turning, although whether they are still used to pump water from the river I can't tell.

I don't think the truck is going anywhere soon!

 As I neared the water ski club at the end of Wilsons Road, I was overtaken by one of the locals who was out in a craft of a rather different sort to that usually seen on this part of the river. Rather than the roar of large engines, this little boat quite definitely "chugged" along.

Out for a cruise



Fortunately for my ease of paddling and perhaps a little surprising given the weather, there were no speedboats out at all. Consequently I had a quiet paddle up this section of the river with no disturbances, although by this stage (heading for 20km) the blisters were starting to make themselves felt as were the muscles across my shoulders.

The scenery was the usual mix of farms and historical structures which can be found throughout Breakwater on one side of the river and Marshall on the other.

The aqueduct

One activity which did seem to be particularly popular as it was by now late in the afternoon was fishing. Every little gap in the reeds with public access seemed to be occupied by someone fishing from the bank.

Finally, by 5:45pm I was at the upper breakwater and well and truly ready for a lift home.

The chimneys of Haworth's and Fowler's tanneries at Breakwater

Just another ordinary day on the Barwon really.